“They’re All White, But So Very Different”

I grew up in a small town in Indiana with limited restaurant choices other than McDonald’s or Pizza Hut.

Shortly after getting married and moving to Minneapolis, my husband and I were introduced to Chinese food during a New Year’s party and we both loved this new taste.

The next week, we stopped by the local Chinese restaurant, excited to enjoy some take-out. We stood behind the counter and looked at the menu, then looked at each other, then walked out.

As much as we had enjoyed the food at our friend’s house, neither one of us had the vaguest notion about what all of the different menu choices really meant and we had no idea what or how to order Chinese food that we would like.

For many people, standing in the wine aisle at the local wine shop offers the same confusion as my Chinese food experience.

Most Americans are familiar with Riesling or Chardonnay and maybe even Sauvignon Blanc when perusing the white wine choices. But creative marketing, importation options and even changing tastes mean that there are more choices than ever when choosing a white wine that you’ll love.

As your “wine friend,” let me help with a white wine overview (with a little help from my wine bible, “Wine” by André Dominé) that might make picking a new favorite for summer a little easier.

Chardonnay has long been a white wine favorite, but a great way to have a new outlook on this old standby is to learn the difference between an “oaked” or “un-oaked” Chardonnay. Many people love the distinct flavor that oak barrels provide to a buttery chardonnay.

Yet, I’ve found people who think they don’t like Chardonnay will often change their minds when they try an “un-oaked” Chardonnay that was aged in steel vats rather than oak barrels since the clean flavor of the grape is not masked by the oak.

Most people have a very strong opinion about whether they like “oaky” or “un-oaked” Chardonnay, so try a comparison and see what you think.

As you stroll farther down the wine aisle, you’ll see many Sauvignon Blanc choices. My personal favorite for sipping on the deck while watching a summer sunset, these wines will range from the crisp citrus flavors often found in New Zealand Sauvignon Blancs to the almost grassy notes of wines from Washington state.

I am partial to Sauvignon Blancs from Chile (Casa La Postalle is a favorite) but love to try different choices from all over the world. Relatively inexpensive for a good bottle, Sauvignon Blanc also seems to vary tremendously from year to year, so taste before you stock up for the summer.

But don’t get confused in the middle of the Sauvignon Blanc section when you run across a bottle labeled “Fumé Blanc.” This isn’t a different wine, simply the creative idea of Robert Mondavi. In 1968, many California Sauvignon Blanc labels were of average quality at best, often with harsh, grassy flavors. When Mondavi had the opportunity to purchase a high quality lot of Sauvignon Blanc grapes, he aged the wine in oak and created the name “Fumé Blanc” to give the impression of a higher quality of wine similar to the french Pouilly-Fumé (fume in French refers to “smoky,” a flavor associated with oak barrel-aged wines). The wine sold well and the marketing idea worked its way onto many California labels.

Another confusing name game in the white wine aisle centers around Pinot Grigio vs. Pinot Gris. The same grape is used for both wines (a permutation of the red grape Pinot Noir), but Italy and California use the name Pinot Grigio while France and Oregon use the French spelling of Pinot Gris (“gris” is French for “gray”).
A light summer wine with an almost “mineral” taste, choose the French version if you want more flowery overtones, while Italian offerings will tend to be a little lighter and crisper. Harder to find will be bottles of Pinot Blanc. A different “white” rendering of the Pinot Blanc grape, this subtle yet full-bodied white wine has a unique flavor that will leave you looking for more.

A world tour

Want to have your white wine choices take you on a tour around the world? Start in the Loire Valley of France with a crisp Chenin Blanc. This simple, clean wine also is highlighted in many South African options, so see if you can tell the difference between the two countries and how they make the wine.

Cross France to the Rhone Valley and try a wine made from the Viognier grape. A dry white wine with powerful, almost apricot aromas, this grape has become a favorite in California for blending with more traditional grapes to give an elegant flavor.

From France, head to Germany for a mountain-grown Riesling or a Gewurztraminer if you have a bit of a sweet tooth.

Then make your way to Spain for the hot summer wine of 2010 — Albarino. This dry, flavorful wine has been described as having nutty or fruity overtones, yet is crisp and refreshing on the palette. Definitely enjoy it soon after bottling because it probably will not age well.

A special summer occasion may call for a sparkling wine. But don’t call it Champagne unless it truly comes from the Champagne region in France. All other bubbly white wines may sparkle in your glass, but France is very strict about ensuring that if the label says “Champagne,” it comes from France.

In the United States, many wineries are experimenting with flavors in their sparkling wines, so look for hints of almond or berries if you want to try something new.

Complete your tour back in France with a white Bordeaux. This region, famous for expensive and incredible Cabernet Sauvignon and red wine blends, also uses Semillon and Sauvignon Blanc to offer outstanding white wines. Ask your local wine store friend for help selecting a white Bordeaux and then grab a couple of Lobsters for the grill and enjoy those summer sunsets while they last.

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